Gran Turismo IA-Class License Winning Strategies Guide By Mark Kim a.k.a. Vestiroth Version 0.53 Last Update: 24September1998 Street Date: 24September1998 Newer versions of the IA-Class series Winning Guide for Gran Turismo (Sony Computer Entertainment for PlayStation) can be found on the following locations: - http://www.verasnaship.net (Verasnaship Interactive) - http://vestiroth.home.ml.org (Mirror site, points to my Tripod page at http://members.tripod.com/~allarge) This document will not be completed until I can get enough games to refresh my memory, as even an FAQ author may have to suffer some bugs creating Video Game FAQs. This is definitely too much work, as I need some time to refresh myself before I can get all bugs fixed. Also, there will be some repetitiveness on this work. Please correct me as much as you can with the tactics. Please don't slander at me for any fashion or reason. When all tactics are completely saturated, then I will go ahead and create a ZIP version of this work. I didn't create a ZIP version of the B-Class Strategy Guide because the file was under 100KB, which is my minimum for creating ZIP works. Since the IA-Class document and the B-Class Document are over 100 KB (as I speak), they will be available in ZIP Files from now on. If you have any fixes, bugs, suggestions, comments, or any tralala you want me to know, then please e-mail me with the subject of "Gran Turismo IA-Class License series" at the following e-mail addresses: - vgfaqs@verasnaship.net (There are bound to be times when I run into problems with my mail server so please be patient. If I can't reply to your message, then I'll try to work things out!) Please note: Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail or any mailbombs will not be tolerated. Period. I don't give a $#!^ whether you're trying to sell me something, or how the hell I can get rich quick, or any dirty crap, or any bulk e-mail. I report any spamming to your ISP the instant I receive any of this. I'm pretty sure that your ISP may dishonorably shut you down if you're found guilty of this. Don't try it. See these following addresses to see why it's bad: - http://spam.abuse.net (Spamming Infocenter) - http://www.cauce.org (Coalition Against Unsolicited Commercial E-Mail) This document, like all Video Game FAQs on the Internet, must be viewed in a monotype font or the alignment will not be correct. If the alignment isn't correct for any reason, then please follow these procedures: 1. On Netscape Communicator, click on Edit, then Preferences. 2. Click on Fonts at the Appearance Section 3. At the Fixed Width Font, select Courier New, and select size 10 point font. 4. The document should be aligned correctly! This work was intended to serve as a winning strategy guide for each series in Sony's Gran Turismo, and was tailored to help you win the series. Since the majority of my readers hasn't obtained the pain- in-the-ass International A Class License yet, I'll tell you what the hell to expect out of this, and what you can do to solve this harsh problem of Time Trials. Since I just recently got my International A License, there's tend to be bugs, so please suggest some fixes if I'm wrong. My goal is to help you get the International A License and to help you burn the competition to a crisp. As opposed to the B-Class and A-Class series guides, I'm gonna be a gentleman this time around. =) Legal Notice: This document was intended to be circulated free of charge through the use of IRC, FTP, newsgroups, Telnet, Imagine Games Network, and for recreational and personal purposes providing that this document remains unmutilated, unpirated, unmodified, untamed, unreworded, and providing that you give me credit for this work. This electronically unpublished work is trademark and copyright (c) 1998 Mark Kim. This unpublished work may not leave the Internet for any reason and must include all the legal tralala if you wish to use this work for commercial purposes as placing any material from this work on any gaming magazine (like EGM, Game Pro, et. al.) constitutes a violation of the Byrne Internet Copyright Law and a serious criminal act. Receiving any monetary compensation by selling printouts of this work is strictly prohibited. Any attempt to steal this work and make this your own is a violation of all applicable Internet Copyright Laws including United States Title 107. Any ripped FAQs are subject to immediate rejection from any video gaming sites such as Kao Megura, Tigeraid, Toxic Interactive, GameFAQs, Imagine Games Network, Slikatel's Strategy Page, and any video gaming sites that I can name. This document was authored and tailored by Mark Kim with respect to all Sony Properties, and is considered as a "non-commercial" and private, personal publication, providing that this document has been created as a "fair use" under United States Title 107. If for any reason you object to any of this material, please let me know via e-mail at the following e-mail address: - feedback@verasnaship.net Gran Turismo is developed by Polyphony Digital under license by Sony Computer Entertainment, Inc. This game is copyrighted 1997, 1998 Sony Computer Entertainment. All Rights Reserved. The cars, images, and all cars' likeliness are registered trademarks and copyrights of its respective owners. All Rights Reserved. This FAQ was created by Mark Kim in respect to Sony, Polyphony Digital, Mazda, Honda, Acura, Toyota, Mitsubishi, Aston Martin, Chevrolet, Nissan, TVR, Dodge, and Subaru Properties, as I have no intention of infringement on copyright on any of this work. ======================================================================== HISTORY OF THIS FAQ Version 0.2 (August 31, 1998) Managed to get the International-A License after weeks, and weeks of frustration, anxiety, and anger! I've managed to pull out an unfair domination on two of the five championships that I am entitled to participate in! I'm gonna try to help you as much as I can with the pain-in-the-ass time trial examinations so you can get your IA-Class License without having to waste too mcuh time. Version 0.5 (September 15, 1998) Attempted to complete the IA-Class License tests by offering complete strategies as much as I can. Too tired and dizzy to start offering strategies on the Tuned Class sections of this guide for now. Version 0.53 (September 24, 1998) The Tuned Car Championship and Special Stage Route 11 Reverse Endurance Championships are completed thanks to my commitment buying an Inca Computer under an Inca Loan. I already have ordered a phone line from Ameritech and I am now seeking out Internet Access for my own self so I don't have to wander around all over and over the Chicagoland Metro Area just to use the Internet anymore. Please be warned that there is bound to be some repetitiveness in some sections of the FAQ so bear with me on this. This document is also available in ZIP format. ======================================================================== CONTENTS OF THIS FAQ * Vestiroth's recommendations * What is an International A Class License? * The Eight License Tests (Fukomoto Atsushi at fukomoto@imasy.or.jp) - High Speed Ring Attack - Special Stage Route 5 Attack - Grand Valley Speedway Attack - Deep Forest Attack - Autumn Ring Attack - Trial Mountain Attack - Special Stage Route 11 Attack - Grand Valley Speedway Reverse Attack (IA License Examination) * Gran Turismo World Cup * Supertuned Car Championship * Grand Valley Speedway Endurance Championship * Special Stage Route 11 Endurance Championship with Racing Cars * Special Stage Route 11 Endurance Championship without Racing Cars * How to mirror this FAQ * Submitting this FAQ to GameFAQs.com * A word from Vestiroth * Possible references of this FAQ * Credits ======================================================================== VESTIROTH'S RECOMMENDATIONS 1. You need to be a proud holder of the B-Class and A-Class License before getting your International A Class License. Once you are eligible for these tests, you'll know why. 2. I recommend that you keep a straight and smooth driving line on all tests because any skidding could slow you down. Be careful not to course-out as you will fail the test if you do so. 3. After passing the 7 tests, you'll use the Dodge Viper GTS Coupe and play your luck at the Grand Valley Speedway Reverse. If you can pass this pain-in-the-ass test (you got the IA License!), then it's time to polish up your skills on any A-Class Special Event. 4. After placing first on all A-Class championships, then it's time to press your luck at the GT World Cup, which is laden with nuisantic Castrol Mods. To tell these somewhat lame Castrol Mods that resistance to your superiority is futile, earn the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition by winning the American and Japanese Car Series or buy the Mitsubishi GTO Limited Edition for 500,000 Credits. As an alternative, you can heavily tune and "Castrolize" either your GTO Twin Turbo or Skyline GT-R to cheese through this Cup. You will gain access to three Gran Turismo Hi-Fi races once you place first overall in this series. 5. To earn lots of money, buy a Dodge Viper GTS, and DON'T DO ANYTHING (tuning it up, reducing weight, or Castrolizing this car) so you can have a normal car at your garage. Pit the Viper GTS on the oh-so- difficult Commercial Car Championship. If you can place first on all five tracks, you should take home 350,000 credits. If you pole position and dominate the series, then you should take home 400,000 credits. 6. Since you're not allowed to bring any Castrol Mods, Toyota Castrol Supra GT, Mitsubishi GTO Limited Edition, Nissan Nismo GT-R, Mazda RX-7 Limited Edition, Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, Acura NSX-R Limited Edition, or any other "cheap" special cars (like the Dodge Viper GTS-R and the kick-ass Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition) on the Supertuned Car Championships and on the Special Stage Route 11 Endurance Championship without Racing Cars, go to the Nissan Dealer, buy a new Skyline GT-R, and heavily tune this car to the max and cut its weight down, but DON'T CASTROLIZE THE CAR. I have to say this because you will need a non-Castrolized car to enter either the Supertuned Car Championship or the Special Stage Route 11 Endurance Championship without Racing Cars (Jaz Rignall for PSM Online located at http://www.psmonline.com) 7. Gran Turismo is the most realistic racing game up to date, so I recommend that you just enjoy the game. Although you may get pissed just because the computer races unfairly, you should try to discover new techniques or/and routines to improve your skills. Having fun while playing Gran Turismo is the most important part that I'm asking of you. 8. PSM Online has a kick-ass Gran Turismo Guide you can read Online at http://www.psmonline.com. Be sure you check out GameFAQs.com for some neat Gran Turismo Extras at http://www.gamefaqs.com. 9. If you don't have *at least* one at your home already, then I recommend going to your nearest authorized PlayStation Dealer to get a Dual Shock Analog Controller. Please give your thumbs a rest by turning the Analog on to use the Left Analog Stick. Trust me. It takes time to get used to, but once you get used to control the car with the left stick, then the control's excellent. The most important part of the Analog Stick is that you're not numbing your thumbs too much. This is useful on the endurance races because you're running 30-60 laps, and if you use the D-Pad too much, then you'll hurt your thumbs badly. ======================================================================== SO WHAT THE HELL DOES THE IA-CLASS LICENSE MEAN? An IA-Class License means that you've proven the Racing License Board that your a competent driver and you know how to complete the toughest track in the shortest amount of time possible. It also means that you can participate in all events, surpassing the participation volume of both B-Class and A-Class License holders. It also means that you're able to keep the car under control even in the harsh situations in a track, and you can handle Rear-Wheel Drive Cars efficiently. Holding the International A-Class License, you should be able to do the following according to Fukumoto Atsushi (fukomoto@imasy.or.jp): - Completing all the tracks in the shortest possible time - Being capable of being a competent driver - Being able to avoid going off the course - Capable of driving any TVR and Dogde cars - Having the ability of keeping a smooth driving line at all times - Taking wicked corners without harsh sliding - Being able to use the "Slow-In, Fast-Out" maneuver In addition to the B-Class and A-Class events that you can participate, you are entitled to participate in these events provided that you have finally earned the International A License from your hard efforts: * The GT League: - Gran Turismo World Cup * Special Events: - Great Valley Speedway 300 Mile Endurance Championship - Special Stage Route 11 Endurance Championship with Racing Cars - Special Stage Route 11 Endurance Championship without Racing Cars - Supertuned Car Championship ======================================================================== INTERNATIONAL A CLASS LICENSE EXAMINATIONS Note: An A-Class License is required before you can take any of these tests. Index of tests: IA-1: Attack the High Speed Ring with the TVR Griffith IA-2: Attack Special Stage Route 5 with the Dodge Viper GTS IA-3: Attack Grand Valley Speedway with the TVR Griffith IA-4: Attack Deep Forest with the Dodge Viper IA-5: Attack Autumn Ring with the TVR Griffith IA-6: Attack Trial Mountain with the Dodge Viper IA-7: Attack Special Stage Route 11 with the TVR Griffith IA-8: Attack Grand Valley Speedway Reverse with the Dodge Viper Note: In order to take IA-8, you must pass the first seven tests first. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ IA-1: ATTACK THE HIGH SPEED RING Test Car: TVR Griffith Time Limit: 1'07"000 Prerequisite: None ------------------------------------------------------------------------ This could possibly be the easiest of the eight license tests. However, you need to make sure that you're not powersliding too much and that you are keeping a *smooth* driving line for as much as you can. I don't know if *any form of cheating* would be acceptable in this test, so you *do* have to e-mail me at vgfaqs@verasnaship.net if you come up with something new. With regards to this license test, I'll try to strike a perfect balance of speed, handling, and control as much as possible. Turn 1 ------ You can take this first turn at full speed. However, during the final stretch of the turn, you'll have to be careful because the turn ends with a *surprising* sharp left, and there's bound to be *some* grass at the right side of the track. Try not to hit the wall or touch the grass as those would be grounds for failing the test. You can slide through the final stretch of the turn, but I consider this a pain. Turn 2 ------ You shouldn't be going any faster than ~100 mph while taking on this turn. Do a *zest* braking *just before the turn starts*. When the turn starts, you should be moving from the outside of the track and into the inside. However, you may have to go slower, depending on the position that you start the turn. When you exit the turn, grass will be waiting for you at both sides of the track! What a way to go! Turns 3 and 4 ------------- Keep your speed under 80 mph (I mean it) when taking on these turns. Cut your speed as early as you can (but not too early nor too late) and when the turn starts, you should be moving from the outside to the inside. When trying to cut the apex of Turn 3, it's important that you don't touch the grass (as you will instantly fail the test if you do). Be sure that you control the TVR efficiently during all of Turn 3 because Turn 4 starts immediately after Turn 3. I found that rapid-gas tapping would work, provided that you are not over- spinning the rear wheels and that you're not carrying the TVR into a heavy drift. At the start of Turn 4, you may want to do some *slight* braking so that you can move from the right and into the left. As with Turn 3, you need to keep your speed under 80 mph (but higher speeds may be possible if you are adventurous) and leaning to the left side of the track (using rapid-gas tapping and making sure to stay off the grass). You should accelerate as the turn ends. Be sure not to touch the "greetings" grass as you exit the turn. Turns 5 and 6 ------------- Go inside of the entire turn. When the turn ends, be prepared to face Turn 6. Brake at a straight line to ~100 mph, and take the turn from the inside of the track. Accelerate *only* when you're confident that you'll exit the turn without further problems. Avoid the wall at the right and the grass at the left at all costs while taking on this turn. Now finish the track and hope you are fast enough. If so, then save this passed test on your memory card before taking another IA-Class License Test. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ IA-2: ATTACK SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5 Test Car: Dodge Viper Time Limit: 1'30"00 Prerequisite: None ------------------------------------------------------------------------ This is one of the hardest license tests in the IA-Class because you are being tested on your ability to be a competent driver to start. Second of all, you will be tested on how well you can tame the Dodge Viper on some of the lousiest turns in the track. There's some areas that you need to worry about. I'll try to pin-point them as I walk you along through this devilish test. Turns 1 and 2 ------------- You can take the first turn at full speed. However, the second turn is where you have to cut your speed so you don't wind up scrapping the wall at the right. By the time you end the first turn, you should have *already* braked to ~100 mph, and use some rapid gas tapping to avoid hitting the wall at the right side of the screen. Any wide skidding is grounds for loss of speed, which is precious. Just make sure that you don't see any Tire Smoke while taking on Turn 2. Turn 3 ------ You may wish to take this turn at full speed, but I wouldn't do so as this turn is *kind of* sharp. Be sure that you are starting the turn from the outside and move deeply into the inside. The key to take on this turn successfully is to keep a smooth racing line without having to powerslide or any unneccessary/excessive slowdown. You should be in good shape when you take on Turn 4. Turn 4 ------ Slow down to ~60 mph and start the turn from the outside and move gently into the inside. A wide skid would result in a spin-out where as starting the turn too late would be grounds for immediate fail. This is a *painful* turn, so make sure that you're not doing so much slowing down in the turn that you didn't beat this course in less than 1'30"000. Turn 5 ------ Provided that you have indeed taken Turn 4 with *zest*, you should be able to take this turn without much trouble and through full speed ahead. If you were sloppy during Turn 4, then I don't know how you will be able to cope with this somewhat blind turn. Turns 6 and 7 ------------- You can take on this Ess without losing any speed provided that you keep a smooth racing line and that you started the turn the earliest possible. Be careful when trying to exit out of Turn 7 because that's when you will be facing a weird straight. Don't try to hit the railings at the left side of the track (just before Turn 8 begins) as you will fail the test. Turns 8 and 9 ------------- The key to undertaking these turns is to cut the apex for as much as you can without any skidding or blatant slowdown. You may wish to slide at Turn 8 and take Turn 9 at full speed but that's pretty dangerous to say because skidding takes away some precious speed and melts down your tires viciously. Try to target your speed around ~85 mph by the time you start undertaking the first turn so that you can take the second medium turn at full speed. You should be at the outside by the time the Hairpin begins. Turn 10 ------- Start this Hairpin too late and you will fail the test. Spin out during the hairpin and you will be wasting valuable time. Another main concern during the IA-2 Test. Slow down to ~40 mph before you start taking on this hairpin and try to avoid any skidding as much as you can so that you can take the next two turns without too much effort. Turns 11 and 12 --------------- Provided that you have taken Turn 10 with *zest*, you can take on Turn 11 without losing speed. At Turn 12, use the out-and-in with *minimal* skidding so that you barely miss hitting the wall. Turns 13-15 ----------- Major concern. You may have to slow down to below 75 mph in order to take on the first two sharps. Make sure that you don't skid on the first two turns because you'll need every ounce of control by the time you take on Turn 15. I would slow down somewhere around the pedestrian crossing before Turn 13 begins. At Turn 15, you should do some skidding (though it's risky) provided that you've taken Turns 13 and 14 carefully and without any heavy skidding or spinning-out. After you finish Turn 15, you will need to prepare to take on Turn 16. Turn 16 ------- Another Major concern. You may want to start the out-and-in while taking on this turn. You may need to speed out if you think you're going to hit the wall. Rapid-gas-tapping's acceptable as long as you're not crazy about skidding. Now go onto the Straightaway to the finish line and when you finish, hope that you're fast enough. Provided that you have finished this track in under 1'30"000, save the passed test on your Memory Card before going onto the Third International A-Class License Test. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ IA-3: ATTACK GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY Test Car: TVR Griffith Time Limit: 2'03"00 Prerequisite: None ------------------------------------------------------------------------ You'll have to make sure that you are braking at a straight line and making sure that you are using the "Slow-In, Fast-Out" technique in order to cope with some of the wicked turns you will see in this test. In order to block off an attempt to go off-track, I'm going to use a good blend of speed and handling for as much as I can. Since the TVR Griffith may be heavy, I'm gonna force you to brake early as possible and to avoid blatant wheelspin for as much as I can. Turn 1 ------ Use this turn to prepare yourself for Turn 2, which is a hairpin. Make sure by the time you *nearly* touch the straight before the hairpin starts, brake to below 60 mph so you can take on this hairpin without going off-track. Turn 2 ------ It's important to keep a smooth racing line for as much as you can in this hairpin because you will need every drop of control while this hairpin persists. During this hairpin, you shouldn't be accelerating and going no faster than 55 mph. Just a little after the middle of the hairpin, you should be accelerating, but only if you are confident enough that you won't touch the grass. Turns 3-5 --------- These rather gentle turns can be taken at full speed. However, in Turn 5, you may have to do a little drifiting because I found Turn 5 to be pretty dangerous during high speed entrances. Make sure that you have the car straightened by the time you exit Turn 5, or you'll be sorry when you enter Turn 6, which is a hairpin. Turn 6 ------ The key to taking on this hairpin is to go no faster than 40 mph and by keeping up a smooth racing line at all costs. Brake preferrably just a little after the middle of the straight so you will allow some room for error, move to the left side of the track when you are done braking, and cut the turn from the outside and into the inside. You should have the car recovered by the time you finish up taking on this tight hairpin. Turns 7 and 8 ------------- Cut the apex of each of the turn. Brake just a bit so you can take on these turns without any harsh risks of going out-of-track. I would say that you should take Turn 7 at 85 mph and Turn 8 at 65 mph and you should not do any skidding here since you are going to be spinning the rear tires blatantly. Turn 9 ------ Brake to 50 mph just before the turn starts. Cut the turn from the out-and-in, and make sure that you don't wind up into a blatant skid which can overspin your rear tires. You should have the car back to straight position just before Turns 10 and 11. Turns 10 and 11 --------------- Brake to ~68 mph just before Turn 10 begins and cut Turn 10 from the out and in. Don't acclerate or get into a heavy skid. At Turn 11, you should not be exceeding any faster than 85 mph to avoid possible contact with the grass at the left side of the track. I would take Turn 11 with some rapid-gas tapping. Turn 12 ------- Cut your speed to 100 mph just before this turn begins. As the turn starts, use rapid gas tapping for handling and try to stay in the middle of the track for as much as you can. You shouldn't be going any faster than 95 mph while taking on this turn. Don't let the next straight fool you because you will have to face Turns 13 and 14 sooner or later, and if you want to pass, you will need to slow down the sooner the better. Turns 13 and 14 --------------- Hairpins in disguise. Cut your speed to 40 mph just before the first hairpin begins, and make sure that you are cutting from the outside. Don't get into a blatant slide because you'll spin out if you do. At Turn 14, you should do the "Slow-in, Fast-Out" maneuver in order to cut the apex of the final hairpin. You will need the car back to straight standing by the time you finish taking on these two turns. Turns 15 and 16 --------------- Turn 15 can be taken at full speed, but at Turn 16, you should do some *slight* skidding by turning ahead of time and by cutting the apex. The key onto taking Turn 16 is to test your ability to handle a medium right turn without any blatant slowing down. The ideal speed for Turn 16 would be around 96 mph. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ IA-4: ATTACK DEEP FOREST Test Car: Dodge Viper Time Limit: 1'23"00 Prerequisite: None ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Yep, it's the track that most beginners will more likely fail because there's grass everywhere and simple grass contact will fail the test. You need to keep your Viper under control if you wish to pass the test. Face it. You ARE outgunned. You need to be in total control if you want to pass the test. Now in order to help you pass this test, here's some major pointers in the track: Turn 1 ------ Cut your speed to under 70 mph, and take the turn from the outside and into the inside. Be sure that you do not accelerate during the turn because you will risk going inside the grass (meaning that you fail the test if you do). Turns 2 and 3 ------------- Try to stay centered within these two turns, striking a good balance between speed and handling, making sure that you do not strive for lurid tailslides. Try not to cut the apex because you may risk having the wheels touch the grass. Turn 3 is something to worry about because you have to slow down in preparation for Turn 4. Don't go too fast in this area because you will need all the control to make it through the next concern in the track. Turns 4 and 5 ------------- You shouldn't be going any faster than 65 mph on this area. Try to keep a smooth racing line for as much as you can right over here. Try not to get into a lurid fish tail slide because that's when you are about to touch the grass. After Turn 5, you may have to make sure that you are staying centered in the track because you have some evil bends to take care of before the sixth major turn. Try to remain centered in this scene, and definitely forget cutting the apex. Turns 6 and 7 ------------- Turn 6 can be taken with a mediocre tailslide (although I'm strongly opposed to tail slides here). Just before Turn 7, you should have the car straightened up. You can cut the apex at Turn 7 if you want, but make sure that you are not poised to hit the right wall by the time you enter the slight easy bends just before the eighth major turn. Turn 8 ------ You need to slow down ahead of time (but not too early) in order to avoid contact with the grass at your right. Stay centered in this turn or you can cut the apex providing that you are not touching the grass at the left side of the track. Turns 9 and 10 -------------- The final stretch of the track. Turn 9 can be taken at full speed (as long as you don't go bonkers cheating on the test) and Turn 10 can be taken with some sliding (provided that you are not willing to touch the grass at either the left or right side of the track). Cross the finish line and hope that you have passed the test. If so, then save your passed test on the memory card before going onto another test. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ IA-5: ATTACK AUTUMN RING Test Car: TVR Griffith Time Limit: 1'24"00 Prerequsite: None ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Autumn Ring is one of the tougher courses because you have to avoid any blatant cheating, as this is grounds for test failure. Always make sure that you are going as smooth as possible, and possibly try to use the Slow-In, Fast-Out maneuver to take on harsh corners. Cutting the Apex is acceptable as long as you don't wind up cheating on some seemingly tough corners. Turn 1 ------ Hairpin Right. Slow down at a point where you can take on this hairpin at an exceptionally high speed (but just about right so you don't have to track-out all of a sudden). Move the car from the outside and into the inside. You should try to be at the right side of the track when Turn 2 begins. Turn 2 ------ You may be dizzy as you encounter this turn because you have to deal with the chicanes right after this turn. Again, move from the outside and into the inside. You should not be going too fast after this turn because you are about to deal with the chicanes and not be cutting on the corners too blatantly. If you blatantly cut the corners, then you will fail the test. Turns 3 through 6 ----------------- Try to keep a smooth racing line so that you can cut the apex and not blatantly cut the corners. Try to stay centered after the first chicane so that you will take on the second chicane without blatant cutoffs. Forget about accelerating here. Turn 7 ------ This turn can be taken apex-cutting style with some controlled skidding. You need to watch your speed and possibly slow down to where you can take on the next hairpin with control because you will be entering this hairpin at a high speed, and if you do not want to fail, don't let this straight fool you. Turn 8 ------ You should have remained at the left side of the track and slowed down at a point where you can take on this hairpin at a good speed, but just about enough to make sure that you don't track-out. Cut the apex using the slow-in, fast-out method, and don't slide or you may be spinning out and possibly track-out. Turn 9 ------ This hairpin shouldn't be as bad as the first two hairpins. You need to slow down so that you can cut the apex and prevent yourself from tracking-out the course. Turn 10 is coming up, so don't get too dizzy from this turn and have the car straightened by the time you undertake Turn 10. Turn 10 ------- If you are adventurous, then take this turn at full speed turning early and possibly cutting the apex. Otherwise, it will be safe to reduce your speed just right so that you can undertake this turn without having to go track-out. Turn 11 ------- This 235 is a killer. You may have to cut your speed to 60 mph and possibly try to slide throughout this turn. This is a challenging sector of the track because you need to slide without going off the track and without spinning out. After this turn, don't let the next straight fool you because you have a chicane and a medium right coming up. Turns 12-14 ----------- You will need to cut your speed about right so you can cut the apex of the first turn and treat the next two turns just before the next medium right as one turn. With regards about the chicanes, you need not cut the apex since you risk hitting the barrier or touch the grass for the least. Don't let the next straight fool you as you need to cut your speed so you can take Turn 15 without drama. Turn 15 ------- Cut your speed and slide by cutting the apex on this lamer. Make sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn. Straighten up your car so you can take the final two turns without blatant slowdowns. Turns 16 and 17 --------------- The final stretch of this track. Turn ahead of time so that you can cut the apex and take these two turns at full speed. Cross the finish line and hope that you were fast enough. If you pass this test, then save this passed test on your Memory Card before going on to the next test. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ IA-6: ATTACK TRIAL MOUNTAIN Test Car: Dodge Viper Time Limit: 1'33"00 Prerequisite: None ------------------------------------------------------------------------ A good way to practice up on Trial Mountain just before the actual test is to pit a Dodge Viper GTS on a Spot Race. You should get a good idea on what you are expected to do for the actual test. Afterwards, it's time to see if you can bring your skills up to level at this test. Turns 1 and 2 ------------- Take these turns at full speed, making sure that you are turning ahead of time, and that you are cutting the apex. Be sure you have the Viper straightened up before Turns 3 and 4. Turns 3 and 4 ------------- Turn 3 can be taken at full speed using out-and-in. Be sure that you are turning ahead of time or you may be touching the grass (No touching or propositioning of the ladies!!!!! The grass reminds me of the ladies for personal reasons during a license test.). Don't let the bend fool you because you need to slow down if you want to take on Turn 4 without drama. By the time you take on Turn 4, you should slow down to under 70 mph, cut the apex from the out-and-in, and as you fast-out of Turn 4 (provided that you are NOT TOUCHING THE GRASS), make sure you line up at the left side of the track to take on Turn 5. Turn 5 ------ Don't let the straight fool you. Turn 5 is sharp, meaning that you need to take this turn at no faster than 55 mph, cutting the apex, and not accelerating until after the turn. Sloppy driving throughout this turn are grounds for immediate fail. Be sure that you have the car straightened up as you take on the two slight bends before Turn 6. Turns 6 and 7 ------------- The preferred speed to undertaking Turn 6 is 85 mph with some out-and-in before the tunnel. Turn 7 should be taken at between 75-80mph and you should make sure that you are cutting the apex, slowing down just before you exit the tunnel, and cutting as you leave the tunnel. Have the car straightened and enjoy the straight while it lasts. Turn 8 ------ Slow down to about roughly 70 mph (adjust depending on your experience) as you see the turn coming up from the straight and take this turn from the right and land into the left of the turn. Don't accelerate until after the turn. Turns 9-11 ---------- Cut the apex of each of the turns, but Turn 11 is where you'll have to do your worry-abouties. Slow down to 70 mph before Turn 11 starts, cut the apex (don't touch the grass), and fast-out while straightening up your car before Turn 12 comes to play. Turn 12 ------- You will be carrying a better deal of speed if you slow down to around 70 mph ahead of time and using the In and out technique to take this hairpin. Be sure that you are staying clear of the grass if you decide to stay low with this one. Turns 13 and 14 --------------- The ideal speed to taking these turns is 106 mph with some apex-cutting. Cut your speed after you pass the Bridgestone Tunnel in a straight line, then cut the apex like you usually do. If done correctly, then you don't have to worry about touching the grass (ladies in my case). Gotta be careful if your Viper takes a dip because if you take this dip, be prepared to spin-out of control and possibly fail the test. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ IA-7: ATTACK SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 Test Car: TVR Griffith Time Limit: 2'14"00 Prerequisite: None ------------------------------------------------------------------------ This is a tough test because you will have to deal with one of the most painful courses I have to think about. Also, it's important that you try not to fishtail your car as you may get into a heavy spinout as you take on certain turns. It's important to slow down at a certain point if you are bidding to pass the test. Turn 1 ------ Take this one at full speed. Don't let the slight straightaway fool you as the next turn is sharp. Turn 2 ------ Approach this turn as speed, and brake at a straight line from the left side of the track. As soon as you reach a desirable speed, slide (but don't acclerate), cut the apex (but don't front-out the barrier), and straighten up the car before Turns 3 and 4. Turns 3 and 4 ------------- Take Turn 3 at full speed and immediately slide Turn 4, making sure that you straighten up the car before Turns 5 and 6. Turns 5 and 6 ------------- Approach Turn 5 by braking at a straight line, and slide Turn 5 without accelerating. Straighten up the car before Turn 6 comes, and do the same thing with Turn 6 (but you may have to hit the wall, but hopefully you shouldn't be able to front-up the barrier if you slide just in time). Turn 7 ------ A good way to cheat on this hairpin (I call this cheating on a lady) is to line up your car at the left side of the track, and rub your car at the left. It may be necessary to do a little sliding to avoid any sudden instant fail of the test. Turns 8 and 9 ------------- Hopefully, your car is straightened up by the time you are taking these two turns. Turn 8 can be taken at full speed. Slide slightly at Turn 9 to prevent an immediate fail, and try to rub your right tires at the right wall (line up the car at the wall before doing this), and have the car back in your control before Turns 10-13. Turns 10-13 ----------- Fronting the barriers here will result in an immediate fail. It is important to keep yourself under control while taking on this chicane. Ease up and try to keep a straight line to minimize the loss of control in this area. Turns 14 and 15 --------------- Take these turns at full speed, and definitely don't let the straight fool you as Turns 16 and 17 (a deadly chicane) are coming up. Turns 16 through 18 ------------------- Approach Turn 16 by braking to 60 mph ahead of time. Slide Turn 16 and take on Turn 17 the same way. You should have the car straightened up by the time Turn 18 starts. Try to stay low in Turn 18 for as much as you can. Turn 19 ------- Try to brake during the slight left bent before the hairpin begins. Start sliding when you are ready. You may have to rub the wall a little bit (but hopefully, you've slided to prevent yourself from fronting the barrier too soon). Turns 20 and 21 --------------- Try to slide during these two turns, and definitely right after Turn 21, straighten up the car (don't spin-out, though) and get ready to cheat on Turn 22. Turn 22 ------- Align the wheels at the left side of the track. Rub the wheels while the hairpin is in progress. Be sure that the car straightens up right after the hairpin. Turns 23 and 24 --------------- As soon as you see some of the Red showing up on this deadly chicane, brake to 50 mph. You should be ready to take on this crap chicane as soon as this turn starts. Hopefully you are lined up at the left side of the track as the turn starts because you need to do some apex-cutting if you want to pass, but if not, then I have no clue on how you will be able to pass this test. Turn 25 ------- Stay low on this turn as much as you can. Cross the finish line and hope that you are fast enough!!! If so, then save this passed test on the Memory Card!!! ------------------------------------------------------------------------ IA-8: ATTACK GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY REVERSE (IA-CLASS EXAMINATION) Test Car: Dodge Viper Time Limit: 1'59"00 Prerequisite: Must complete the first seven IA-Class License Tests first. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ You have to complete the first seven IA-Class License Tests before you can attack Grand Valley Speedway Reverse. There's a lot of unfamiliar turns and strange twists so you will need to compete in a mock Time Trial using an unmodified Dodge Viper GTS before taking this test for practice. Try to keep a smooth racing line and definitely forget any drifting in this course for speed. Turns 1 and 2 ------------- Approach this turn cutting your speed to under 120 mph. Stay low for as much as you can for this turn. Turn 2 is a piece of cake, but don't let this turn fool you as you need the control if you want to take on Turns 3 and 4 without drama. Turns 3 and 4 ------------- Try to cut your speed as early as you can before Turn 3 starts. The ideal speed overall on this deadly chicane is 40 mph. Try to keep a smooth racing line for as much as you can because Turn 2 is long and tends to dizzy you out as Turn 3 starts. Touching the wall at the right too long during Turn 3 results in immediate fail of the test. Turn 5 ------ Cut your speed slightly so that you will avoid any foreign front-ups during this turn. Be sure that you are keeping a smooth racing line in this turn in preparation for the straight. Turn 6 ------ The best time to slow down on this turn is when you are exiting the drawbridge. As the turn begins, try to slide (it's dangerous), and definitely have the car straightened up at Turn 7. Turn 7 ------ Very dangerous turn. You may have to slow down to 65 mph, stay low throughout most of the turn, and forget accelerating until after the turn. Turn 8 ------ The best time to slow down to 50 mph is right after the gentle left bend terminates. You must keep your foot off the gas if you want to slow down in a jiffy. Take this turn in-and-out style. Make sure that you are lined up at the left side and forget about speeding up until after the turn because if you are too sloppy in this one, then you'll fail the test. Turns 9 and 10 -------------- While trying to slow down to a speed that enables you to go fast enough to commence an under 119-second finish, try to stay low on these two while maintaining control of the car. Turn 11 ------- Slow down to 40 mph ahead of time before the turn starts. Make sure that you are at the right side of the track before the hairpin starts. Cut the apex and straighten up the car so that you will be able to take on Turns 12-14 without drama. Turns 12-14 ----------- Cut the apex on each of these turns, and be careful of any possible dips that may exist on these turns. You can take on these turns if you are careful enough. Turn 15 ------- Hardest of the turns because you're entering this turn at speeds of up to 135mph. Slow down just before the side-slanting begins. Have your gas off the pedal and almost immediately brake. You should be lined up at the right side of the track and when your speed reaches 60 mph, cut the apex, and don't accelerate until after the hairpin. Now you should be able to finish up GVS without any further problems. Cross the finish line and hope you are fast enough!!! If so, then save your IA-Class License on your Memory Card, and enjoy all the International A Class Events. ======================================================================== GRAN TURISMO WORLD CUP Number of Tracks: 6 Laps per Track: 3 Required Class License: IA-Class Restriction of Car Type: None Tracks involved: High Speed Ring, Trial Mountain (ass-spanking time!), Grand Valley Speedway, Special Stage Route 5, Deep Forest (grass time!), and Special Stage Route 11 (hardest of the 11 tracks in the game). If you don't believe me, then please read Stephen Rhee's FAQ at this URL: - http://www.mit.edu/mystery/www/gtfaq.txt Pole Position Bonus: 10000 Credits Finish First in the Track Bonus: 20000 Credits Series Winner Bonus: 50000 Credits Car you get for winning the race: Gran Turismo Hi-Fi in the Special Event Menu (Not a car, but an addy you get for beating Gran Turismo!) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestiroth's note: This is IMHO the hardest class in Gran Turismo. You will be racing against Castrol Mods galore, but the cars aren't as severe as with some of the special events requiring an IA-Class License you'll be participating on later on your career. Even though this seems to be hard, here's some suggestions that you should follow in order to blow away the seemingly hard cars (though you may not be able to pole position on all courses): 1. Participate in the Japanese and American Sports Car Championships, and win the series two consecutive times. You *should* get the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition and the Dodge Viper GTS-R. As soon as you get these kick-ass cars, save them on the Memory Card before throwing the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition to the Japanese and British Sports Car Championships. 2. Participate in the Japanese and British Sports Car Championships using the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition that you won during the Japanese and American Sports Car Championships. Win the series two *consecutive* times to earn the Honda Civic Del Sol Limited Edition and the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition. Dump the Civic Del Sol back to Honda and save your Cerbera Limited Edition on your memory card. I hate Honda Cars (with the exception of the Acura Integra Type R). They all suck (IMO). After saving the TVR on your Memory Card, then blow the competition to a crisp at the British and Anerican Car Championship. 3. Participate in the American and British Car Championship by either using the Dodge Viper GTS-R or the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition (I prefer the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition). Blow the Competition away two consecutive times and earn two *unrewarding* cars: The Mazda RX-7 A-Spec Limited Edition and the sorry-ass Chrysler Concept Car. Sell the crappy Mazda RX-7 back to Mazda (if youw want a Mazda RX-7, then get the Mazda RX-7 Limited Edition for 500,000 credits instead) and sell the sorry-ass Concept Car back to Chrysler. I hate the Chrysler Concept Car. It's too weak on the long run (because I raced against it the first time I blew the competition away on the Japanese and American Car Championships, and the Concept Car isn't that strong, and can't catch up that much). 4. Provided that you *have* passed all the 8 pain in the ass IA-Class examinations (saving your IA-License on your Memory Card) and that you *do* have the three kick-ass cars on your Garage (Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition, Dodge Viper GTS-R, and TVR Cerbera Limited Edition), it's time to blow the competition away at the Gran Turismo World Cup! 5. This guide assumes that you're inside the cockpit of the kick-ass Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition. You need to change your strategies if you are using other cars. 6. Fiddle up your settings that you can be prepared to take on the crappiest situations in the series. You need to make sure that your settings are up to par with the competition. For the least, make sure that you have your brakes on both sides to Level 15, and have your Gear Ratio adjusted so that your speed goes up to AT LEAST 190 mph on straightaways. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ HIGH SPEED RING This is a course where Toyota Castrol Supras, Nissan Skylines, and other cars that have high top speed do the most damage in. Make sure that you configure your car so that you can max out your Top Speed but make sure that you have some handling in mind because there are some sharp turns in this track if you forgot. A smooth racing line is all you need to win this race. Turn 1 ------ Take this turn at full speed. Be sure at the final stretch of the turn that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting the wall at the right by the time the turn ends. Turn 2 ------ You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at higher speeds. Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4 without much trouble. Have the car straightened. Turns 3 and 4 ------------- You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are the most dangerous turns in the track. I would cut my speed to around 90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall. Try to do some rapid gas tapping in this area. A feel of the gas is required to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs. Turn 5 ------ Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6. Stay to the right side of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right side of the track. When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the inside. Turn 6 ------ Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn without having to release the gas pedal. Make sure that you speed out if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall at the right. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ TRIAL MOUNTAIN Since you will be taking on a track with many slants, chances are that you may need to play around with the Suspension Settings in order to settle down for a smooth ride at Trial Mountain. Also, you may need to increase the strength of Brakes on both Front and Rear so that you can take on hairpins and allow some error for some of the bizarre corners. Turn 1&2 -------- Take the left turn from the out and in, making sure that you're turning ahead of time. Please be aware that you may bounce when you try to cut the apex on the first part of the ess so be prepared to keep a firm grip of the steering wheel. The second part of the ess can be taken at full speed provided that you've been under control of your car at the first part of the ess. For control, I wouldn't go any faster than ~120 mph with some *controlled* steering applied here. Turns 3&4 --------- You should be able to take Turn 3 at full speed. However, when you undertake Turn 4, you should try to prepare to take Turn 5 so you don't end up hitting the wall or grass after the tunnel. Try to cut your speed as soon as you get a fair view of the tunnel so you don't skid too hard. Turn 5 ------ You shouldn't be going any faster than ~60 mph-~70 mph while inside the tunnel. Be sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn. Now I will have to warn you that *you will be taking a dip* right after this turn so you will need to keep a firm grip of your car providing that you finish undertaking this turn. Turn 6 ------ Don't ever, ever, ever go any faster than ~50 mph because if you do, then you could either hit the wall or mown the grass (something that you don't want to do). Slow down as you are taking a slight dip, then begin drifting as soon as you get to your desired speed. Try to take the turn from the out-and-in so you will have a great deal of speed to chew in by the time you exit this turn. If you get inside the grass, make sure that you get out of this grass as soon as you can. Please don't accelerate until after the turn. Turns 7&8 --------- You can take these turns at full speed, but make sure that you're alert of Turn 9, which comes up shortly after this gentle ess. Cut your speed as soon as you exit out of Turn 8. Turn 9 ------ Cut your speed to ~90 mph ahead of time and as the turn starts, you should try to skid as much as you can during this turn (although you shouldn't do this because you're melting the tires). Once you're in the tunnel, you should try to prepare to undertake Turn 10 so that you're not so wrapped up in your success of undertaking this turn. Vestiroth: On Trial Mountain, you should not be overconfident after you undertake any turn successfully because there's bound to be turns following the next, which makes this course a test of racing prowess. Turn 10 ------- Brake to no less than 80 mph and start skidding inside to the next tunnel. Although this turn isn't difficult, you need to be sliding and your speed must not be exceeding 85 mph by all means. Please make sure that your taking this turn as early as possible so you'll have some speed to chew from at the long straightaway. Vestiroth: Trust me. You'll hate the Impreza Rally Edition for its 160 mph barrier after driving this lamer on the straight before Turn 11. Turn 11 ------- The best time to cut your speed is when you see some sections of this rather sharp turn. When the turn's about to start, you should be at no more than 90 mph, skidding throughout most of the turn, and never accelerating until after the turn. If you can go inside the yellow OSHA lane, then it's a good thing because you're attempting to keep a smooth racing line, something that's important in Gran Turismo. Turns 12&13 ----------- Since you're inside a four-wheel driver, you should have no problem keeping a smooth racing line in preparation of Turn 14. Turn 13 seems to be more dangerous than Turn 12 because the turn's sharper than in Turn 12, but the turn shouldn't be too bad providing that you're alert of the turn at all times. Turn 14 ------- Ancient words of wisdom: Don't go any faster than 70 mph. Cut your speed as soon as you finish Turn 13 (but don't brake the car that you're slanting to the left side of the track). Cut the apex but don't go inside the grass. Try to skid as much as you can in this hairpin. By the time you get out of this turn, you should have barely missed the edge of the track, and you should have the car straightened. Don't let the straight fool you because you're about to face yet ANOTHER HAIRPIN in the *blue*. Turn 15 ------- You will be carrying a good amount of speed if you try to keep a smooth line as much as you can in this turn. Try not to drift because not only you will burn and melt the tires, but you risk going inside the grass which you don't want to do. So keep a smooth racing line. Slow down as soon as you see some sections of the hairpin (but don't slow down too early). Take the turn from the outside and into the inside. You shouldn't be going any faster than ~70 mph. By the time you exit the turn, you should be accelerating and staying alert of the final ess, which IMHO is the worst part of Trial Mountain. Turns 16&17 ----------- Don't go any faster than 110 mph here. Try to cut both Esses from the out and in, making sure that you turn ahead of time to avoid any dipping and jumping (which is unnessary) from the brink of error. The best time to slow down is just a *little* after you pass the tunnel. Keep the car straight whenever you slow down because if you slant the car while you brake, you may end up screwing up big time! Vestiroth: This is the horrible area of the game because there's grass on both sides of the ess, and you may take an unneccessary jump if you go inside the grass and eventually lose control, so don't take this ess at full speed. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY Hopefully you've got a good idea on how to use an All Wheel Drive Car (either a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition or a Mitsubishi GTO Limited Edition) from the GT Cup. If not, then no big deal. The only contrast is that you won't be able to Pole Position on this track unless you learn how to pilot an All Wheel Drive Car. Before you perform a Free Run Session, make sure that you set the Brakes to Level 15 because you will need to cut your speed drastically if you want to allow some room for error here. Turn 1 ------ Being dizzy right after starting will make you uncomfortable on the second turn, which is a hairpin. You'll want to cut your speed as soon as you finish up taking on the gentle left so that you'll have your speed *reasonably* reduced by the time you take on the first hairpin turn in the track. Turn 2 ------ If you were able to cut your speed (I recommend releasing the gas pedal and by the time you hit the *slight* straight brake to ~60 mph and do some sliding) as you were taking on the first turn in preparation of this hairpin, then great. If not, then be prepared to either touch the dirt or deal with a spinout! It's important that you cut your speed (if you're going over 120 mph at the start of Turn 1) as early as Turn 1, and start reacting by the time you reach Turn 2 so you can allow some room for error by the time you reach the next straight, a gateway to a rather gruesome S-curve coming up. Turns 3-5 --------- Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll need to probably be sliding on Turn 5 in order to avoid any unwanted dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or right side of the track. If you did not turn ahead of time at Turn 5, then you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind up spinning out of control. You'll need to be in good shape when you take on Turn 6, which is a bad-ass hairpin. Turn 6 ------ Ancient words of wisdom: Slow down ahead of time for control. By the start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph. Take the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there. Don't let the next straight fool you as you'll have to take on a rather *sharp* left. Turn 7 ------ I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are *next* to the slant, but not touching it. I should be staying near the leftmost side of the track when I finish this turn because Turn 8 is coming up. Turn 8 ------ As with Turn 7, I would slide and take this turn from the outside and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are near the slant (but not touching it), and continue to stay near the rightmost side of the track because Turn 9 is coming up, and believe me, Turn 9 is a sharp left (a carryover from the Sunday Cup and all other B-Class Races). Turn 8 is indeed a lot deadlier than Turn 7 so you may have to go slower on this turn as opposed to Turn 7. Turn 9 ------ Deadly Sharp Left. Before you enter this turn, make sure that you're not going any faster than ~50 mph. Start the turn from the outside, work your way inside. If you performed this turn correctly, then you should *barely* miss the wall. If you took this turn lousy, then be prepared to hit the wall or spin out. Try not to slide here because that's where beginners tend to overspeed and overslide, causing major spinouts and problems that may show your vulnerability towards your opponents. Turn 10 ------- As deadly as this painfully sharp left may seem, it seems to be a *bad* hairpin in disguise (but shouldn't be that bad). Try to slow down as early as you can so you don't have to overslide and spin out on this turn. I would say that ~60 mph would be safe (safe enough to avoid the grass at the right), though my experimentation's been limited. If you are going too fast or skidding too sloppy, then a nice Tunnel Wall is waiting for you at the start of Turn 11. Turn 11 ------- If you have taken Turn 10 neatly, great. At Turn 11, don't go any slower than 90 mph. I would slide throughout the turn and possibly use a *little* rapid gas tapping so that I don't accelerate until after the turn finishes and the straightaway begins. Use the straight before Turn 12 efficiently because at Turn 12, you'll have to cut your speed *just a little* before the straight terminates. Turn 12 ------- Is your speed cut to ~110 by the time the turn started? Well, do some *controlled* rapid gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and refrain from accelerating until the turn ends. Failure to do this will result in rail contact at the left, which may damage your tires. Turns 13 and 14 --------------- No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway. Cut your speed to ~74 mph *as* you enter the first turn. Drift throughout the first turn using out-and-in. You should not be going over ~60 mph on average during the first turn, although I'm saying ~74 mph (you lose speed as you slide). On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~50 mph, take the turn from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you complete this turn. You should be at around ~40 mph by the time your at the final stretch (You tend to lose lots of speed here, so don't go too fast as these turns are hairpins in nature). Turn 15 ------- The key here is to take this turn without any unneccessary slowing down or having to touch the grass on either side. I would say that ~130 mph with some sliding (assuming that you started turning as the turn starts) would be safe enough to avoid the slant and grass at the left. On the second and third lap, you'll need to be careful when taking on Turns 1 and 2 because you may be at about 175 mph (on Class A Cars) by the time you enter this area once again. Don't act like a drunk driver in this track because the competition's much more powerful than the Gran Turismo Cup. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5 Although you can leave the settings alone, I recommend that you set the brakes on both side to Level 15. You may have to increase the Downforce and stiffen up the Suspension if you think a stiff ride is what you may need. Otherwise, the brake adjustment should be enough to keep you competitive. Turn 1 ------ Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having to hit the wall, which wears out your tires. It's important that you slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2. Turn 2 ------ Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that 115 mph would be a safe speed. Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't wind up scrapping the right wall. You might have to apply some braking if appropriate. Turn 3 ------ Take the turn from the out-and-in. Controlled braking should keep your car under control and prepared for Turn 4. As long as you skid, you should not be hitting the wall. If you are inside by the time Turn 3 starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with the turn. Turn 4 ------ Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up, and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can. I would say the ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal experience. Turn 5 ------ Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken with some acceleration. If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn. Turns 6&7 --------- This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the out-and-in. Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control. You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry. Turns 8&9 --------- The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding. You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't hit the left wall. Make sure that your car is in good shape so that you can skid Turn 9 without any problems. Taking the turns out-and-in style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may cause a spin-out. Turn 10 ------- Killer Hairpin. Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without hitting the wall. Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that mistake would mean your last. Don't skid as you may risk hitting the wall at the right. I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be safe. Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin. Turn 11 ------- You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your usual speed. By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any trouble. Turn 12 ------- Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control. It's important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!! Turns 13-15 ----------- Worst part of the track. You need to slow down as early as the painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather nasty right. Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor by the time you enter this area. This part really demands good timing and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle. Turn 16 ------- Pretty long Medium Right. You may need to do some skidding, or you may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than I thought. You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast. Don't try to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to stance. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ DEEP FOREST Hopefully, you've set up your brakes to Level 15 because there's bound to be some weird corridors that you may have to brake on. You may also want to set up your downforce, ride height, and suspension in order to settle down for a smooth ride, but make sure that you are setting up your Suspension and Downforce so you can commit good handling on this track as well because you will be facing plenty of tight turns backed up by some grass! Turn 1 ------ A shitty way to start this course is with a BAD HAIRPIN. Cut your speed during the two hairpin signs and if you don't want to skid, don't go any faster than 60 mph, but if you want to skid, then you may want to say about 70 mph, although my experimentation is rather limited. Turns 2&3 --------- Keep you car under control, and definitely stay off the grass at the left and right side of the screen because that's when your worries begin. Turn 3 is more sarcastic than Turn 2, so you may have to slow down at either Turn 2 or 3 to keep your car under control. However, you will have to worry about Turn 4 because Turn 4 is a rather *sharp* left that you have to chew on, and you got a killer tunnel coming up just before Turn 5. Turn 4 ------ Cut your speed *immediately* after you exit Turn 3, but don't slant the wheels to the left because you'll hit the wall and touch the grass so make sure that you're slanting the front wheels to the right as you prepare for this turn. You need to be going no faster than 65 mph and you should try to drift as much as you can in order to avoid any grass contact and possibly a hit right at the tunnel entrance wall, which causes serious delays. Turn 5 ------ You should be ready to drift from this corner as soon as you are about to exit the tunnel. Cut your speed *as you leave the tunnel* and drift on this turn. I would say that 72 mph would be reasonable but you can take this turn at higher speeds, although I don't recommend taking this turn too hot. Turn 6 & 7 ---------- You will have yet another sharp to deal with so don't go overconfident with the easy right. Try to slow down as early as just before the easy right so you'll have control by the time you hit the sharp left. You shouldn't be going any faster than roughly 50 mph by the time you hit Turn 7. Be careful that you don't go inside the grass. By the time you enter the interlude before Turn 8, you should have the car straightened up. Turn 8 ------ Although this turn can be taken at full speed, I strongly recommend that you take this turn with some *controlled* braking and steering, just a precaution that you don't hit the wall at the right. If you done the drifting and braking right, then you should be able to avoid the wall at the right. Turns 9-11 ---------- This part of the track is as close as a straightaway you'll find in this track, so use this part of the track wisely. Make sure that you are turning *slightly* during the easy turns, making sure that you are not hitting the walls. Turn 11 is where you should be doing the worry abouties because you're going to face a fierce left right after the easy right, so be sure that you're slowing down as you are about to finish the easy right but not too early that you're losing control of the car. Turn 12 ------- If you have done a *controlled* slowing down as early as the conclusion of Turn 11, then you should begin to do even more braking. You should be drifting a little as you undertake this turn. I would say that 80 mph would be a good speed, but you need to be drifting so you can avoid the grass at the right. Please don't accelerate until you finish taking on this turn. If you slow down too late, then you're bound to hit walls and mow some grass! Turn 13 ------- Take this turn at full speed, trying to avoid the grass. By the time you finish this turn, you don't have to worry about the grass at the left and right side of the track anymore. JOY! Turn 14 ------- Cut your speed to ~120 mph and I would take this turn by out-and-in, and with heavy skidding. When you get inside of the straightaway, you need to have the car straightened. Gotta be careful when drifting because poor timing of taking this final turn will result in either unnecessary dipping or grass contact, which ruins your performance greatly. I'm trying to make sure that you're staying competitive here. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 If there's a track that will push me to use the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition for the Gran Turismo World Cup, then it would be this course. It's array of blind turns, tight curves, and bizarre corridors makes this track reserved for All Wheel Drive cars only. Turn 1 ------ This turn can be taken at full speed. Just don't get so greedy in the turn that you forget turning in the second turn. Turn 2 ------ Slow down from the outside. Then as the turn begins, slide throughout most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11 is laden with sharps). Don't be starting the turn too early as you may hit the right wall. Be sure that you drift here so that you can maintain your speed. Turns 3 and 4 ------------- It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear wheels blatantly. Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6. The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without any blatant skidding. Try not to do too much slowing down since you're inside an AWD Vehicle. Turns 5 and 6 ------------- Try to skid both turns, and make sure that you are not going too fast on these turns, since you are in risk of spinning out the rear tires. Have the car straightened as you complete a sharp. Watch out for the slant just before Turn 6 starts. Skid through Turn 6, and then get ready for Turn 7, which is a hairpin. Turn 7 ------ Try to slow down just as the turn starts so you can skid through this killer hairpin. Slide throughout the turn and don't accelerate until you're confident that you won't spin out and that you will not hit the wall at the left. You can hug the left wall as you take on this turn for increased speed, but that takes too much timing, and it's rather dangerous since you're wearing your left tires. Turns 8 and 9 ------------- Turn 8 can be taken at full speed. Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will have to slow down just before the turn starts so that you can drift throughout most of the turn. Be sure that you are not drifting this turn too hot as this will result in a spinout. You can hug the right wall in order to take this turn with increased speed, but that's rather dangerous since you risk wearing out the right tires trying to cheat. Turns 10-13 ----------- Pain-in-the-ass corridor. You may want to cut your speed to around 80 mph so you don't end up hitting the wall. Don't get into a bad skid here as you will need every inch of control in order to make through this corridor without hitting the wall. Keep a smooth racing line right here. Turns 14 and 15 --------------- These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15 and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17, which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane. Turns 16 and 17 --------------- If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15), then you're in for a spinout. Keep the car running straight, release the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane. By the time I turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left. Turn 18 ------- A good feel of the gas and pedal is required here. The key to passing this turn is to keep a smooth racing line with a good feel of the gas pedal without any blatant slowing down or any unnecessary drifting here. Apex cutting is acceptable, as long as you are not sloppy taking it. Turn 19 ------- There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin. You may wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and pedal to the metal. You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order to cheat on this hairpin. However, you risk having to wear out your tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake as the left slant concludes *hard*, and yank the car to the right. Be sure that you have the car counterbanked and straightened by the time you start Turns 20 and 21. Turns 20 and 21 --------------- I would treat these two sharps as one turn. Time your drift so that you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins. A bad drift or a sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you. Turn 22 ------- Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin. This applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel. As the right hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just right, and pedal to the metal. Becoming a cheating bastard takes time because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com) but it's easier to do with the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition since All Wheel Drive improves your timing a *little* bit. Turns 23 and 24 --------------- You need to slow down to under 45 mph when you see sections of Turn 23 in order to avoid sloppy screwups. Brake from the left side of the track and as you see sections of Turn 23, brake *hard* and as Turn 23 begins, keep a smooth racing line. A good feel of the gas, brakes, and the steering wheel is required. Turn 25 ------- Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn. Speed out from the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall. A good feel of the gas and the pedal is required here. ======================================================================== SUPERTUNED SPORTS CAR CHAMPIONSHIPS Number of Tracks: 5 Laps per Track: 5 Required Class License: IA-Class Restriction of Car Type: No "Castrolized" cars allowed. You cannot bring any special cars (i.e. Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition) or anything that has underwent Castrolization at a Racing Shop. You can heavily chachinate your cars with the exception of the Racing crap, and that sucks because this is indeed a tough track because you're racing every track in reverse (ACCIDENT TIME!), and you're contending with (oh-boy) a Toyota Supra RZ, one of the most feared computer cars from the Front Engine, Rear Drive Championships. You'll need to follow my pet peeves if you want to dominate this course. Tracks involved: High Speed Ring Reverse, Grand Valley Speedway Reverse, Clubman Stage Route 5 Reverse, Autumn Ring Reverse (Boy, Autumn Ring Reverse will give you the creeps, it indeed gave me the creeps!), and Special Stage Route 11 Reverse (even more harder than Special Stage Route 11, the forward track!) Pole Position Bonus: 10000 Credits Finish First in the Track Bonus: 50000 Credits Series Winner Bonus: 100000 Credits Car you get for winning the race: You get a late model Nissan Skyline for winning the race. Skylines are precious, so make sure that you try them out before you try to sell them. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestiroth's note: This is the toughest series in the game. Since you can't bring any bad-ass racing cars (not to mention that you'll be facing an overpsyched Toyota Supra RZ), this is something to worry about. Ask Jaz Rignall of PSM Online, Fukumoto Atsushi, Ben Cureton, or anyone who burned this game to a crisp what car to use for this series. Everybody will say the following: 1. Buy a 1989 Nissan Skyline GT-R and save this car on your Memory Card. Earn more money at the Commercial Car Championships (using a completely stock Viper GTS) or you can take it easy participating at the Japanese and American Car Championships (with the FTO LM). 2. Go to the Nissan Nismo and purchase any maximum-strength performance enhancers. If the item says "Purchased", then you'll have to do a machine test before you can change the parts. Overpsyche this car so it can go just about 900 HP, but don't undergo a racing modification this time around. 3. After overpsyching this un-Castrolized car, save this car on your memory card. 4. Be sure that you polish up your skills with this overpsyched Nissan via a Spot Race before you get inside this series. Trust me, you'll have to get used to its controls because all courses are reverse, and the computer drones are out for blood! 5. I'm gonna be assuming that you are going to be using an overpsyched 1989 Nissan Skyline GT-R for this series. 6. Fiddle up with your settings so that you can have the strongest possible brakes, and making sure that your suspension is up to par with the competition. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ HIGH SPEED RING REVERSE I don't know what to say for this one because this is *one* bizarre course. You will have to beware of the many *parallel* corners that this track has to offer. Basically, you will be going around this ring in reverse, meaning that some strategies have to be adjusted in order to block off the competition in this track. Also, since you are racing in Reverse for all of the series, you may have to brake as early as you can to allow some room for error. Turn 1 ------ I found this turn to be the deadliest turn of this track. If you are going too fast, that means that you have to slow down ahead of time *blatantly* in order to avoid contact with the wall, but don't slow down too early as you will be touching the grass. I found out that with some skidding, you should be taking this turn A-OK, but you may want to take on this turn *according* to your experience. Turn 2 ------ Try to use this turn as a preparation to take on Turns 3 and 4. Stay on the inside while taking on this turn, making sure you *barely* miss the grass at the left side of the screen. By the time you start Turn 3, you should be at a good position to reduce room for error. Turns 3 and 4 ------------- As with High Speed Ring, you should be going no faster than ~80 mph (but you will need to adjust your speed based upon your experience). Brake ahead of time, cut both turns using out-and-in, and make sure that you are doing rapid gas tapping often here so you don't end up hitting the grass or wall. A good feel of the gas pedal is required. Turn 5 ------ Cut your speed to about 100 mph just before the turn starts. Don't cut your speed too early as you'll screw up BAD. As soon as the turn starts, you should begin sliding (or taking it in a smooth line if you don't want to risk losing speed) and as soon as the turn concludes, straighten up the car. Turn 6 ------ As opposed to turn 1 on the forward track, this turn can be taken at full speed providing that you have been able to take this turn ahead of time, and that you don't end up hitting the wall or grass in any fashion. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY REVERSE You will be facing lots of weird and unfamiliar turns in Grand Valley Speedway Reverse and you will be facing an array of bizarre passages that may cause blatant tire melting, and you do need to be a careful driver (or in my case, holding an A-Class License for the least) in order to get away from this track without too much damage. Turns 1 and 2 ------------- The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any blatant slowdown or wheelspin. A reasonable speed here would be 100 mph (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with some skidding, and after Turn 2 ends, you can go full speed for now but you'll have to be aware that Turns 3 and 4 will be coming up. Turns 3 and 4 ------------- No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway. Cut your speed to ~50 mph *as* you enter the first turn. Drift throughout the first turn using out-and-in. You should not be going over ~45 mph on average during the first turn, although I'm saying ~50 mph (you lose speed as you slide). On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~48 mph, take the turn from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you complete this turn. You should be at around ~40 mph by the time exit the chicane. You need to be concerned with Turn 3 because that's when you tend to enter a sharp at high speeds. Turn 5 ------ You shouldn't have to worry about slowing down too blatantly since you just recovered from the two hairpins. Please do some *controlled* rapid gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and refrain from accelerating until the turn ends. Failure to do this will result in rail contact at the left, which may overspin your rear tires. You should be lined up at the middle throughout the turn BTW. Turn 6 ------ At Turn 16, brake to about 90 mph, and start skidding as the turn begins so that you don't hit any uneven passages that may cause blatant spinning of the rear tires and a possible spinout. The key to taking this turn would be to slide throughout this turn without any contact with the wall or with the least amount of errors. Turn 7 ------ Slide throughout nearly all of this lamer, making sure that you are not going any faster than 70 mph. You should make sure that you are turning ahead of time, cutting the apex, leaning the wheels near the slant, and making sure that you are not accelerating until after the turn. Turn 8 ------ Turn 8 is where beginners tend to bite the dust. Cut your speed to *below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates. When the turn begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires. Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it. Turn 9 ------ The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal. Stay inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass. Turn 10 ------- I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are *next* to the slant, but not touching it. I should be staying near the rightmost side of the track for enhanced degree of control because I will need every drop of control by the time I enter Turn 11, which is a deadly hairpin. Turn 11 ------- Ancient words of wisdom: Slow down ahead of time for control. By the start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph. Take the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there. By the time you take on the rather easy ess-curve, you should have regained control of the car. Since you have a long straight, you should try to brake to 42 mph on this hairpin before all is lost (meaning that you braked too late). Turns 12-14 ----------- Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll need to probably be sliding on Turns 13 and 14 in order to avoid any unwanted dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or right side of the track. If you did not turn ahead of time at Turns 13 and 14, then you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind up spinning out of control. The key in this ess would be to treat your car with lots of respect by easing out on every turn and by turning ahead of time to avoid any sliding, which throws you off control anyway. Turns 15 and 16 --------------- Cut your speed to around 60 mph as the hairpin begins. Be sure you give room to brake because late braking may result in a spinout. Cut the apex from the outside. By the time you take Turn 16 in, then you should have regained control of the car. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ CLUBMAN STAGE ROUTE 5 REVERSE Clubman Stage Route 5 Reverse shouldn't be that tough provided that you're a bad-ass driver in Gran Turismo already. The only concern that you should be focusing on is Turn 1, which is indeed *weird*. Here are some techniques you'll need in order to nail the competition as stated below, and keep in mind that you need to watch out for Turn 1 because this turn may cause blatant tire melt if you don't react the earlier the better. Turn 1 ------ The greatest concern in the track. Go to the left side of the track and when you see some sections of this turn, move *gently* to the inside of this turn and provided that you're not going to be hitting the bizarre wall at the start of the turn (which may overspin the wheels and cause a spin-off), skid. Turn 2 ------ Take this turn out-and-in. Skid throughout this turn making sure that you turn as early as you possibly can to avoid hitting the walls. The key to taking this turn efficiently is to drift without any early-bird attempts or any blatant loss in speed. Keeping a smooth racing line will result in an increased ratio of speed during this turn. Turns 3 and 4 ------------- This Ess can be taken at full speed. Make sure that you yank the car just before the turn starts because these turns are rather blind for beginners. Turn 5 ------ Take this turn from the out-and-in, preparing yourself for Turn 6. Don't slow down too much because this may result in a blatant skid, something you don't want to do until you reach Turn 6. Turn 6 ------ You can scrape the left wall by turning the car to the right just right and hug the wall while stepping on the gas but that's risky because you will burn up the tires and possibly spin the rear wheels. I would just skid on this turn (although I may have to hit the wall). You may have to adjust your speed depending on your skill. I would say that 60 mph is safe to start. Turn 7 ------ Turn gently on this turn, making sure that you are going from the out and in so you will prepare yourself for the final two turns. By the time you start Turn 8, you should be lined up at the left side of the track. Turn 8 ------ The key to undertaking this turn is to cut the apex as much as possible without any blatant sliding or slowing down. Under 100 mph and over 90 mph would be reasonable. A good feel of the gas and wheel is required in order to avoid any wall contact. Turn 9 ------ This final turn can be taken at full speed. If you skid, then just make sure that you have the car straightened up before you cross the finish line, as you will need every drop of speed to blast the enemies into smithereens in this track. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ AUTUMN RING REVERSE I hate this track simply because this track tests your ability to be a diagnostic driver rather than on speed. You do have to learn how to avoid touching the grass as much as you can because there are sharp chicanes that will throw you off course IN AN INSTANT. It's important that you don't go full throttle while taking on any turn, not just the hairpins. Turns 1 and 2 ------------- Don't go full speed and full throttle ahead on this ess or you may be hitting the grass or the wall. If you are at a blatantly high speed, you need to brake to 130 mph at the Finish Line (with the foot off the pedal) and take the turn from the outside and into the inside. This turn has the ability to dizzy you from the next turn, so be sure that your car is straight so you can brake to slow down on the next turn. Turns 3 ------- The best way to take on this turn is to brake just before the turn at a straight line (getting the foot off the gas), and then begin sliding from the out-and-in but it's really hard to cut the apex here because your bound to start the turn inside, which really hurts. Turn 4 through 6 ---------------- You should be lined up at the outside of the track just before this turn starts. Brake at a straight line, and cut the apex at Turn 4. Don't let your guard down right after this turn because you have to deal with the chicane coming up. Try to keep a straight line as much as you can during the chicane to optimize your speed, but it's kind of hard to do because the chicane happens so suddenly. Turn 7 ------ You shouldn't be taking this turn at speeds faster than 65 mph. Again, brake at a straight line, and then slide this lame 235er. You may have to speed out if you are bound to hit the grass at the left. You should have the car straightened up just before the Mazda Speed Tunnel. Turn 8 ------ Slow down to a reasonable speed so that you can slide this turn out and in style without any blatant loss of speed. Brake at a straight line and at the middle of the turn, try to bank the car rightwards so you can slide through. You need a good feel of the gas in order to make it out of this turn without any grass contact. Turn 9 ------ This hairpin can be taken at speeds of up to 70 mph. Brake at a straight line from the outside, and cut the apex, making sure that you don't abuse the gas during the turn. Line up the car at the right side of the track before Turn 10. Turn 10 ------- Approach this turn from the right side of the track and just before the grade rise end, remove your foot from the gas and almost immediately brake simultaneously. The safe speed here is 45 mph with some Apex Cutting, but I found this turn to be deadly because it's as sharp as a lady's fingernail. Turn 11 ------- This is much like the early stretch of the Autumnring Reverse but it's a lot much crappier because you now have twin chicanes coming up right after this sharp. Again, point your car at the right side and brake the car at a straight line. Cut the apex and try to straighten up the car before the chicanes come up. Turns 12 through 15 ------------------- The ideal speed for these twin chicanes is around 70 mph. Any contact with the grass or the slants may make your car unstable so keep that in mind. Try to keep a smooth and straight racing line for as much as you can to maintain your present control. Cut the apex of the chicanes if you can but a medium right follows the second chicane so instantly so you may feel dizzy after this one. Turn 16 ------- You may feel dizzy right after the chicanes. Try to stay low in this turn as much as you can even though you risk having to cut your speed too blatantly, but if you are good enough, you should be able to cut the apex of this turn without touching the grass at the left. Try to stay at the right side of the track as the turn concludes because a tight hairpin follows up afterwards. Turn 17 ------- Approach this hairpin by getting the foot off the gas and almost immediately brake simultaneously to under 50 mph. Use the out-and-in routine to take care of this hairpin and speed out by all means if it is necessary for you (only if you suspect that you will be hitting the grass at the right). Now you should have the car running straight so that you can milk up some speed. Be prepared to slow down as you cross the Next Lap/Finish Line so that you can take on the first Ess without drama. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 REVERSE This is the hardest track in the game. Enough babbling and crying already. :P Turn 1 ------ Approach this corner at a straight line and brake while having the foot off the gas. Try to take this turn pointing yourself at the middle or at the inside of the turn so that you can allow yourself room for error when the chicane is coming up. This turn is sure to make you dizzy for good because your taking on this turn at an insane speed. Turns 2 and 3 ------------- You shouldn't be taking this turn full speed and your chances of passing this chicane will increase if you cut your speed during the final stretch of Turn 1. The left side of the track is the ideal area to start the turn. Try to cut the apex as much as you can here. It's hard to time this chicane since the turn happens just a little after the first curve ends. Turn 4 ------ Approach this turn and brake at a straight line. Cut the apex of the turn and return to the outside of the track, making sure that you are ready to use out-and-in once again for the next two turns after this hairpin. You should be going no faster than 45 mph here. Turns 5 and 6 ------------- Try to slide on both of these turns, but try to stay outside of the first half. Afterwards, provided that you have stayed outside of Turn 5, you can cut the apex of Turn 6. Try to treat these two as one turn to optimize performance. Going too fast will result in barrier contact which may wear out the tires. Turn 7 ------ A left bend will dizzy you real good just before the hairpin. You need to be going no faster than 45 mph here and doing out-and-in if you want to avoid hitting the walls at the right. You should position yourself at the left side of the track right after the hairpin. Turn 8 ------ Move to the Left side of the track, slow down, cut the right side of the track, and move back to the left side of the track just before the next chicane starts. You shouldn't be accelerating even though you are urged to do so. Turns 9 and 10 -------------- You may feel a little dizzy after Turn 8 so be prepared to slow down just before the Chicane Starts. You should try to keep a smooth racing line and possibly cut both turns in order to avoid any unnecessary slowing down. This chicane is IMHO harder than the first since the sharp turns are farther apart. Turns 11 and 12 --------------- These easy bends should be no problem, but don't be going full speed ahead as you will have to face the harsh corridor sooner or later and if you want to pass this area without any frontal contact with any of the barricades, then it's important that you brake in a straight line to cut your speed in preparation for the rough chicanes. Turns 13 through 16 ------------------- Unless you were able to cut your speed from the previous point at the above paragraph, you'll be finding yourself hitting the barriers all of a sudden. While going through these chicanes, it's crucial that you don't get into a blatant slide that may cause you to go off-balance during this crappy area. Keep the car running straight and don't go any faster than 80 mph for the best results. Turn 17 ------- This turn can be taken from the left, to the right during the turn, and back into the left (although you should try to position yourself to the right, but that's Turn 18) by braking at a straight line, and sliding throughout this turn. Have the car straightened up so that you can allow some drama at Turn 18. Turn 18 ------- Move from the left side of the track and into the right side of the track. After the turn, you should position yourself to the right side of the track to prepare yourself to take on the hairpin which is coming up. Turn 19 ------- You need to be braking at a straight line and possibly use out and in at no faster than 55 mph in order to avoid any collision with any walls, even though you're bound to hit the barriers your first couple of times. You can slide through this hairpin but it's too dangerous because that's when you risk spinning-out. Turn 20 ------- At the straightaway, position yourself to the left side of the track. Brake ahead of time so that you can allow some room for error. Clip the apex of the turn. Try to go as slow as you can because Turn 21 follows up right after this turn. If you want to take on Turn 21 without drama, then you should try to stay either centered after the turn or stay at the right side of the track to avoid any problems. Turn 21 ------- Clip the apex of this turn by slowing down and sliding this lamer. Be careful not to hit the barrier at the left when you are cutting the apex. You can still make it throughout this turn even from the left side of the track, but it's pretty ludicrous since you hit the wall at the right. The key to undertaking this turn is to move to the right as much as you can and clip the apex before all is lost. Turns 22 and 23 --------------- This is a blind chicane. Try to slow down just right so that you can clip the apex of this chicane without any contact with the barriers. I find this too difficult because I can't see what's gonna happen next due to the slight upgrade and the height of the barriers. The second part of the chicane is a lot sharper, so stay on your toes. Turn 24 ------- Move to the right side of the track before this turn. Brake with the wheels parrallel and slide this final lamer by clipping the apex. You should be at the right side of the track when the turn ends. Turn 25 ------- You should now be able to complete the track without any further problems. Stay as low as you can in this turn for some much needed speed. ======================================================================== GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY ENDURANCE CHAMPIONSHIP Number of Tracks: 1 Laps per Track: 60 Required Class License: IA-Class Restriction of Car Type: No restriction on Car type Tracks involved: Grand Valley Speedway Only, this is an endurance race Pole Position Bonus: 20000 Credits Finish First in the Track Bonus: 300000 Credits Car you get for winning the race: YEEESSSSS!!!!!!!! A Toyota Castrol Supra GT for winning the race!!!!!! If you have not yet purchased the Toyota Castrol Supra GT yet, then if you win the race preferrably using the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition, then this could be your lucky day. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestiroth's note: Now here's where things begin to get shitty: A close to 2-hour, 60-lap, 300-mile race on the most beautiful track on Gran Turismo, enough to wear out your PlayStation to Smithereens! In order to avoid running the PlayStation for more than 2 hours (and to avoid any spamming or mail-bombing into my mailbox), here's what you have to do: 1. You *should* have a Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo overpsyched and *CASTROLIZED* in preparation to enter the Japanese and American Car Championship. You should have tested your ability to pilot a GTO Twin Turbo long ago during the High Speed Championships. 2. Blast the competition to a crisp by throwing the Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo at the Japanese and American Car Championships to win the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Editon. Save the FTO LM on the memory card and get in the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition and win the Japanese and American Car Championships once again to get the Dodge Viper GTS-R. Save the Viper on your Memory Card and board onto the Japanese and British Car Championships. 3. Using the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition, burn the competition away winning the Japanese and British Car Championships two consecutive times, keeping the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition and dumping the lame Honda Civic Del Sol Limited Edition. Save the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition on the Memory Card, get inside the TVR, and get ready to blow the competition to a crisp again on the American and British Car championships. 4. Win the American and British Car Championships two consecutive times and dump the Mazda RX-7 A-Spec Limited Edition and the sorry ass Chrysler Concept Car before saving the progress on the Memory Card. Now rest your PlayStation for 30 minutes to about an hour so that your ready to hit Grand Valley Speedway once your PSX cools off. 5. Now that your PSX has rested long enough, get inside the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition and kick ass on the 300-mile Grand Valley Speedway Endurance Championship! 6. I'm gonna use the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition for this course. I know it's repetitive, but since this is an endurance race, it's necessary for me to adjust some tactics a little so that you don't overskid which wears out tires. 7. I recommend that you pit every 12-15 laps for fresh new rubber. As of this writing, the information here may or may not be too accurate, so you may have to help me out on this. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY You should be familiar with this track back in the Gran Turismo World Cup to get a feel on how to pilot a Mitsubishi FTO here. Turn 1 ------ Being dizzy right after starting will make you uncomfortable on the second turn, which is a hairpin. You'll want to cut your speed as soon as you finish up taking on the gentle left so that you'll have your speed *reasonably* reduced by the time you take on the first hairpin turn in the track. Turn 2 ------ If you were able to cut your speed (I recommend releasing the gas pedal and by the time you hit the *slight* straight brake to ~60 mph and do some sliding) as you were taking on the first turn in preparation of this hairpin, then great. If not, then be prepared to either touch the dirt or deal with a spinout! It's important that you cut your speed (if you're going over 120 mph at the start of Turn 1) as early as Turn 1, and start reacting by the time you reach Turn 2 so you can allow some room for error by the time you reach the next straight, a gateway to a rather gruesome S-curve coming up. Turns 3-5 --------- Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll need to probably be sliding on Turn 5 in order to avoid any unwanted dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or right side of the track. If you did not turn ahead of time at Turn 5, then you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind up spinning out of control. You'll need to be in good shape when you take on Turn 6, which is a bad-ass hairpin. Turn 6 ------ Ancient words of wisdom: Slow down ahead of time for control. By the start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph. Take the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there. Don't let the next straight fool you as you'll have to take on a rather *sharp* left. Turn 7 ------ I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are *next* to the slant, but not touching it. I should be staying near the leftmost side of the track when I finish this turn because Turn 8 is coming up. Turn 8 ------ As with Turn 7, I would slide and take this turn from the outside and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are near the slant (but not touching it), and continue to stay near the rightmost side of the track because Turn 9 is coming up, and believe me, Turn 9 is a sharp left (a carryover from the Sunday Cup and all other B-Class Races). Turn 8 is indeed a lot deadlier than Turn 7 so you may have to go slower on this turn as opposed to Turn 7. Turn 9 ------ Deadly Sharp Left. Before you enter this turn, make sure that you're not going any faster than ~50 mph. Start the turn from the outside, work your way inside. If you performed this turn correctly, then you should *barely* miss the wall. If you took this turn lousy, then be prepared to hit the wall or spin out. Try not to slide here because that's where beginners tend to overspeed and overslide, causing major spinouts and problems that may show your vulnerability towards your opponents. Turn 10 ------- As deadly as this painfully sharp left may seem, it seems to be a *bad* hairpin in disguise (but shouldn't be that bad). Try to slow down as early as you can so you don't have to overslide and spin out on this turn. I would say that ~60 mph would be safe (safe enough to avoid the grass at the right), though my experimentation's been limited. If you are going too fast or skidding too sloppy, then a nice Tunnel Wall is waiting for you at the start of Turn 11. Turn 11 ------- If you have taken Turn 10 neatly, great. At Turn 11, don't go any slower than 90 mph. I would slide throughout the turn and possibly use a *little* rapid gas tapping so that I don't accelerate until after the turn finishes and the straightaway begins. Use the straight before Turn 12 efficiently because at Turn 12, you'll have to cut your speed *just a little* before the straight terminates. Turn 12 ------- Is your speed cut to ~110 by the time the turn started? Well, do some *controlled* rapid gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and refrain from accelerating until the turn ends. Failure to do this will result in rail contact at the left, which may damage your tires. Turns 13 and 14 --------------- No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway. Cut your speed to ~74 mph *as* you enter the first turn. Drift throughout the first turn using out-and-in. You should not be going over ~60 mph on average during the first turn, although I'm saying ~74 mph (you lose speed as you slide). On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~50 mph, take the turn from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you complete this turn. You should be at around ~40 mph by the time your at the final stretch (You tend to lose lots of speed here, so don't go too fast as these turns are hairpins in nature). Turn 15 ------- The key here is to take this turn without any unneccessary slowing down or having to touch the grass on either side. I would say that ~130 mph with some sliding (assuming that you started turning as the turn starts) would be safe enough to avoid the slant and grass at the left. On the second and third lap, you'll need to be careful when taking on Turns 1 and 2 because you may be at about 175 mph (on Class A Cars) by the time you enter this area once again. ======================================================================== SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 ENDURANCE CHAMPIONSHIP WITH RACING CARS Number of Tracks: 1 Laps per Track: 30 Required Class License: IA-Class Restriction of Car Type: Racing Cars permitted, no restriction on any car you want to be in. Tracks involved: Special Stage Route 11 only Pole Position Bonus: 20000 Credits Finish First in the Track Bonus: 150000 Credits Car you get for winning the race: You get a Nissan Silvia Limited Edition (Castrolized) for winning this race. Try to experiment this car before going on. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestiroth's note: You should have familiarized yourself with this track a long time ago, just before you got your IA License. In order to make sure that you don't make too many pit stops, here are the procedures: 1. Get the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition by winning the Japanese and American Sports Car Championship. Save this car on your Memory Card. 2. Try to win all A-Class Championships (earning nothing but Gold) before getting your International A License. Save all your progress on the Memory Card before going onto winning the International A License. 3. Pass the pain-in-the-ass International A License Tests, save the IA License on the Memory Card, and practice up with the FTO Limited Edition until you're comfy enough to take on this track. 4. Pit the FTO against all other cars on this track. Be sure that you take a Pit stop for every 10 laps. I'm assuming that you are riding an FTO for this track. 5. Fiddle up with the settings so that you are up-to-par with the competition. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 Since you're in for a 30-lap race in the hardest track in Gran Turismo, you may have to drive conservatively here in order to prevent blatant tire wear. Remember, the lighter the car, the longer the tire life. Since this information was taken from my previous Gran Turismo FAQs, the information here will be inaccurate. Please correct me (via e-mail) if you can. Turn 1 ------ This turn can be taken at full speed. Just don't get so greedy in the turn that you forget turning in the second turn. Turn 2 ------ Slow down from the outside. Then as the turn begins, slide throughout most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11 is laden with sharps). Don't be starting the turn too early as you may hit the right wall. Be sure that you drift here so that you can maintain your speed. Turns 3 and 4 ------------- It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear wheels blatantly. Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6. The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without any blatant skidding. Try not to do too much slowing down since you're inside an AWD Vehicle. Turns 5 and 6 ------------- Try to skid both turns, and make sure that you are not going too fast on these turns, since you are in risk of spinning out the rear tires. Have the car straightened as you complete a sharp. Watch out for the slant just before Turn 6 starts. Skid through Turn 6, and then get ready for Turn 7, which is a hairpin. Turn 7 ------ Try to slow down just as the turn starts so you can skid through this killer hairpin. Slide throughout the turn and don't accelerate until you're confident that you won't spin out and that you will not hit the wall at the left. You can hug the left wall as you take on this turn for increased speed, but that takes too much timing, and it's rather dangerous since you're wearing your left tires. Turns 8 and 9 ------------- Turn 8 can be taken at full speed. Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will have to slow down just before the turn starts so that you can drift throughout most of the turn. Be sure that you are not drifting this turn too hot as this will result in a spinout. You can hug the right wall in order to take this turn with increased speed, but that's rather dangerous since you risk wearing out the right tires trying to cheat. Turns 10-13 ----------- Pain-in-the-ass corridor. You may want to cut your speed to around 80 mph so you don't end up hitting the wall. Don't get into a bad skid here as you will need every inch of control in order to make through this corridor without hitting the wall. Keep a smooth racing line right here. Turns 14 and 15 --------------- These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15 and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17, which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane. Turns 16 and 17 --------------- If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15), then you're in for a spinout. Keep the car running straight, release the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane. By the time I turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left. Turn 18 ------- A good feel of the gas and pedal is required here. The key to passing this turn is to keep a smooth racing line with a good feel of the gas pedal without any blatant slowing down or any unnecessary drifting here. Apex cutting is acceptable, as long as you are not sloppy taking it. Turn 19 ------- There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin. You may wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and pedal to the metal. You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order to cheat on this hairpin. However, you risk having to wear out your tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake as the left slant concludes *hard*, and yank the car to the right. Be sure that you have the car counterbanked and straightened by the time you start Turns 20 and 21. Turns 20 and 21 --------------- I would treat these two sharps as one turn. Time your drift so that you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins. A bad drift or a sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you. Turn 22 ------- Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin. This applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel. As the right hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just right, and pedal to the metal. Becoming a cheating bastard takes time because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com) but it's easier to do with the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition since All Wheel Drive improves your timing a *little* bit. Turns 23 and 24 --------------- You need to slow down to under 45 mph when you see sections of Turn 23 in order to avoid sloppy screwups. Brake from the left side of the track and as you see sections of Turn 23, brake *hard* and as Turn 23 begins, keep a smooth racing line. A good feel of the gas, brakes, and the steering wheel is required. Turn 25 ------- Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn. Speed out from the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall. A good feel of the gas and the pedal is required here. ======================================================================== SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 ENDURANCE CHAMPIONSHIP WITHOUT RACING CARS Number of Tracks: 1 Laps per Track: 30 Required Class License: IA-Class Restriction of Car Type: No Racing Cars allowed. You cannot be inside a special (cheap) model or have the car "Castrolized" if you want to enter this race, so have an overtweaked Nissan Skyline GT-R (without the Castrol Crap) ready. Tracks involved: Special Stage Route 11 Reverse (Pain in the ass) Pole Position Bonus: 20000 Credits Finish First in the Track Bonus: 150000 Credits Car you get for winning the race: An upgradeable Nissan Nismo GT-R Limited Edition for winning the race. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestiroth's note: If you thought that Special Stage Route 11 Reverse in the Supertuned Car Championships was an ass, wait until you encouter a 30-lap race in this championship as well. Entering this race, I'm assuming that you already have a Nissan Skyline that you thrown one time at the Supertuned Car Championships. Here's what to do: 1. Buy a Nissan Skyline, get everything you need to enter the Overly Tuned car championships, and win the series. Save the victory on your Memory Card. 2. Keep on practicing with your Skyline on this championship until you are comfy enough to take on this track, since you will be racing on reverse. 3. I'm gonna be using a Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec for this course. Change the tactics if you are using different cars. 4. Since you are not allowed to bring in racing cars for this track, make sure that you are not undergoing any cheap racing mod in prep for this series. 5. You will need to fiddle up your settings a little for stability and handling purposes. You should try to pit in every 6-10 laps since Skylines have high curb weight. 6. Use Hard Racing Tires in order to keep up with the competition. Soft Racing Tires are good for higher traction, but they tend to wear out in only a matter of seconds. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 REVERSE This is not a course for a Nissan Skyline of any kind to get inside because this track is laden with lots of sharp turns, weird hairpins, and an array of unparrallel corners with harsh passages. Urban racing has always been the most famous form of racing, but has always been the most technical aloft because almost all of the time you face a lot of barriers in this track. Turn 1 ------ Approach this corner at a straight line and brake while having the foot off the gas. Try to take this turn pointing yourself at the middle or at the inside of the turn so that you can allow yourself room for error when the chicane is coming up. This turn is sure to make you dizzy for good because your taking on this turn at an insane speed. Sadly and sarcastically, since this is an Endurance Race, you'll have to go much slower than you did on the Tuned Car Championships. Riding on HH Racing Tires is a pain in the ass BTW. Turns 2 and 3 ------------- You shouldn't be taking this turn full speed and your chances of passing this chicane will increase if you cut your speed during the final stretch of Turn 1. The left side of the track is the ideal area to start the turn. Try to cut the apex as much as you can here. It's hard to time this chicane since the turn happens just a little after the first curve ends. Turn 4 ------ Approach this turn and brake at a straight line. Cut the apex of the turn and return to the outside of the track, making sure that you are ready to use out-and-in once again for the next two turns after this hairpin. You should be going no faster than 45 mph here. Since there are times when time and speed are a concern, you may want to rub the wall at the right side of the track by banking the car just right and continue to rub the car until the turn ends. This wears down your tires faster so don't do this unless you need to catch up. Turns 5 and 6 ------------- Try to slide on both of these turns, but try to stay outside of the first half. Afterwards, provided that you have stayed outside of Turn 5, you can cut the apex of Turn 6. Try to treat these two as one turn to optimize performance. Going too fast will result in barrier contact which may wear out the tires. However, you'll have to go slightly slower on these turns due to the tires that you've installed on your Skyline. Turn 7 ------ A left bend will dizzy you real good just before the hairpin. You need to be going no faster than 45 mph here and doing out-and-in if you want to avoid hitting the walls at the right. It's really difficult to time it right on this turn because the tires that I've installed is what really hurts the Skyline's handling. Turn 8 ------ Move to the Left side of the track, slow down, cut the right side of the track, and move back to the left side of the track just before the next chicane starts. You shouldn't be accelerating even though you are urged to do so. Turns 9 and 10 -------------- You may feel a little dizzy after Turn 8 so be prepared to slow down just before the Chicane Starts. You should try to keep a smooth racing line and possibly cut both turns in order to avoid any unnecessary slowing down. This chicane is IMHO harder than the first since the sharp turns are farther apart. Also, you may be bound to hit some walls depending on the tires that you are wearing. Turns 11 and 12 --------------- These easy bends should be no problem, but don't be going full speed ahead as you will have to face the harsh corridor sooner or later and if you want to pass this area without any frontal contact with any of the barricades, then it's important that you brake in a straight line to cut your speed in preparation for the rough chicanes. Turns 13 through 16 ------------------- Unless you were able to cut your speed from the previous point at the above paragraph, you'll be finding yourself hitting the barriers all of a sudden. While going through these chicanes, it's crucial that you don't get into a blatant slide that may cause you to go off-balance during this crappy area. Keep the car running straight and don't go any faster than 80 mph for the best results. Overspinning the tires will result in blatant tire burn and possibly some engine overheat. Turn 17 ------- This turn can be taken from the left, to the right during the turn, and back into the left (although you should try to position yourself to the right, but that's Turn 18) by braking at a straight line, and sliding throughout this turn. Have the car straightened up so that you can allow some drama at Turn 18. Turn 18 ------- Move from the left side of the track and into the right side of the track. After the turn, you should position yourself to the right side of the track to prepare yourself to take on the hairpin which is coming up. Turn 19 ------- You need to be braking at a straight line and possibly use out and in at no faster than 55 mph in order to avoid any collision with any walls, even though you're bound to hit the barriers your first couple of times. You can slide through this hairpin but it's too dangerous because that's when you risk spinning-out. You can take on this hairpin like you did with the first, but do that ONLY if you need to catch up with the competition. Turn 20 ------- At the straightaway, position yourself to the left side of the track. Brake ahead of time so that you can allow some room for error. Clip the apex of the turn. Try to go as slow as you can because Turn 21 follows up right after this turn. If you want to take on Turn 21 without drama, then you should try to stay either centered after the turn or stay at the right side of the track to avoid any problems. Since the tires are not as responsive as SS Racing Tires, you may need to brake a little earlier so that you can allow some room for error. Turn 21 ------- Clip the apex of this turn by slowing down and sliding this lamer. Be careful not to hit the barrier at the left when you are cutting the apex. You can still make it throughout this turn even from the left side of the track, but it's pretty ludicrous since you hit the wall at the right. The key to undertaking this turn is to move to the right as much as you can and clip the apex before all is lost. Turns 22 and 23 --------------- This is a blind chicane. Try to slow down just right so that you can clip the apex of this chicane without any contact with the barriers. I find this too difficult because I can't see what's gonna happen next due to the slight upgrade and the height of the barriers. The second part of the chicane is a lot sharper, so stay on your toes. Your chances of crossing this chicane without any barrier contact will be greater if you slow down earlier than what you would do with SS Racing Tires. Turn 24 ------- Move to the right side of the track before this turn. Brake with the wheels parrallel and slide this final lamer by clipping the apex. You should be at the right side of the track when the turn ends. Turn 25 ------- You should now be able to complete the track without any further problems. Stay as low as you can in this turn for some much needed speed. If you are wearing HH Racing Tires, I recommend that you pull over to the pits every 6-10 laps (because the higher the curb weight, the shorter the tire life). If you are using SS Racing Tires, then you're out of luck. ======================================================================== HOW TO MIRROR THIS FAQ If you want to take a copy of this FAQ for yourself, just press print at your browser's button. If you want to provide a mirror for my FAQ, here's the directions (Assuming that you are using Windows 95): - Start Netscape Communicator 4.06 (preferrably) - Go to http://www.verasnaship.net/text/ and locate my Gran Turismo IA-Class Strategy Guide hyperlink. - Click on the link to the text file, Click on file, and click on Save As - Save the file as mark_kim_gita.txt on your disk (If you save the file using a network, please use your floppy disk). - FTP this FAQ to your Internet Account as usual - Provide a link to this FAQ - Provide a text link to my site at http://www.verasnaship.net - E-Mail Me if you want a fancier link at vgfaqs@verasnaship.net - You can also e-mail me for any requests. Please provide me with the Mirror's URL if you have mirrored this work because I want to make sure that the alignment of this work turns out right. If I see that the alignment is not correct, then I'll e-mail you with this work sent as an attachment so you can correct your problems. I want to make sure that the quality of this FAQ will be passed through into your mirrors as well. ======================================================================== HOW TO SUBMIT THIS FAQ TO GAMEFAQS.COM If you wish to submit a newer version of this FAQ to GameFAQs.com, then here's what to do: - Your subject should be New Gran Turismo IA-Class Winning Strategy Guide Here. - Do either the following: 1. Type in the URL (http://www.verasnaship.net/text/granturismo_iaclass.txt) as a part of your message. Make sure you include my real name (Mark Kim), my handle (Vestiroth), my e-mail address (vestiroth@verasnaship.net) and my homepage (http://www.verasnaship.net). 2. Attach this document as a MIME attachment, and include the following facts: * Platform: PlayStation * Genre: Auto Racing * Title: Gran Turismo * Release Date: 1998 * Developer: Polyphony Digital * Publisher: Sony Computer Entertainment * Title of Work: Gran Turismo IA-Class Strategy Guide * Author: Mark Kim (Vestiroth) * Author's E-Mail: vestiroth@verasnaship.net * Author's URL: http://www.verasnaship.net * File's name (preferrably): granturismo_iaclass.txt 3. Copy and paste the entire contents of this work as a post to the REC.GAMES.VIDEO.SONY newsgroup. In the event that the FAQ didn't turn out to be mirrored properly, I'll e-mail the webmaster of GameFAQs.com with this work as an attachment so the alignment of this FAQ will turn out to be correct. Always make sure that the alignment of this FAQ is correct before you even open your mirror to the public--I'm counting on you to provide quality mirrors of this FAQ! ======================================================================== HOW TO SUGGEST FIXES One time when I was forced to update another FAQ for Super GT by Sega, I was surprised to see that I was driving from Helen Keller. That is why I have a protocol while you are suggesting fixes: - Your subject must be Gran Turismo IA-Class Strategy Guide Fix - You must not use any profanity on your letter - Please tell me if the strategy change is for either of the following: * Gran Turismo World Cup * Heavytuned Car Championships * Grand Valley Speedway Championship * Special Stage Route 11 Championship with Racing Cars * Special Stage Route 11 Championship without Racing Cars * Any IA-Class License Tests - Please tell me the following in addition to the series you're fixing me for: * The car you are using * The track that you're providing the strategy fix. - No Spamming! ======================================================================== REFERENCES OF THIS FAQ * Jaz Rignall (http://www.psmonline.com) * GameFAQs.com (http://www.gamefaqs.com) * Ben Cureton (http://www.toxic.net) * Mousse Lee (mousse@pixi.com) * Mystery Rhee (http://mit.edu/mystery/www/gtfaq.txt) * Sam Davis (sdavis@mail.wsu.edu) * Fukomoto Atsushi (http://www.imasy.or.jp/~fukumoto/gt/) * Secrets of the Sega Sages (http://www.segasages.com) * Imagine Games Network (http://www.imaginegames.com) ======================================================================== VESTIROTH'S SPECIAL NOTES After having to winder around the International A Class License tests, I managed to get my IA-Class License and saved this progress on my Memory Card. This is good because I don't want to go through the trouble of having to get my license once again. It may be hard to get your IA License but once you get it, then it's worth the effort of getting it. ======================================================================== CREDITS * Jaz Rignall for being the standard example of Gran Turismo Domination and being the wiz in Gran Turismo. Read his Gran Turismo Guide at http://www.psmonline.com. * Sony and Polyphony Digital for creating the best PlayStation Game in the market ever yet. * Toyota, Honda, Acura, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Subaru, Chrysler, General Motors, TVR, and Aston Martin for permitting Sony to portray their cars in Gran Turismo. * Fukomoto Atsushi, Sam Davis, Mousse Lee, and Mystery Rhee for being one of the many first FAQ Authors to produce a Gran Turismo FAQ. * Secrets of the Sega Sages for secrets regarding about winning the Commercial Car Race. * Imagine Games Network for accepting Sega Sages and GameFAQs.com as IGN Affiliates. * Interspeed Network for providing me with this domain account, and Network Solutions and InterNIC for accepting my domain registration. * GameFAQs.com for mirroring the last 973KB of my work. * Ben Cureton (tragic) for hosting a Gran Turismo Infocenter